Roll with the rum punches in Barbados (2022)

For a country only a little bit bigger than Rutland, Barbados has given a lot to the world: the grapefruit; Rihanna; Garfield Sobers, scorer of six sixes in one over; and the finest rum punch recipe known to man (“One of sour, two of sweet, three of strong, four of weak”).

But here’s a confession. Even as someone who prides himself on making an excellent rum punch, I had little idea before I visited that Barbados is where rum comes from. I’d have probably guessed Jamaica or Cuba, maybe Brazil or India.

The first reference to “rum” is on a Barbadian land lease from 1650; the world’s oldest documented distillery, Mount Gay, is still in operation, dating from 1703; and of all the places where rum is produced, Barbados is the one with the richest and deepest rum culture, as well as the most revered examples: Doorly’s 14-Year-Old, Mount Gay Andean Oak Cask, Foursquare Indelible.

Any counterclaims are likely to receive short shrift from Richard Seale, the maverick behind the multi-award-winning Foursquare Distillery on the south of the island and a walking encyclopaedia on the history of the spirit. Barbados is particularly conducive to rum- making, he explained. It is, essentially, liquid sunshine. The eastern Caribbean climate, cooled by the Atlantic trade winds, makes for wonderful ageing conditions — one year in the tropics is worth about three in Europe. While the other Caribbean islands are volcanic, Barbados is, uniquely, formed mainly of coral limestone, with many sources of mineral-rich water.

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John Moore’s Bar, on the island’s west coast

It’s also on a latitude conducive to sugar cane diversity. Rum was initially made as a way of using up molasses, a sweet, tar-like by-product of sugar cane production — but Barbados molasses was so tasty it became an end-product in itself. And being at an international crossroads, Barbados was fast to adopt new technologies, which meant that this was really the first spirit to be produced at scale. By the late 17th century, says Seale, the island was exporting more barrels of strong liquor than the Scottish and Irish whisky and French brandy industries combined, and by the mid-18th century it had 158 distilleries, whereas now there are just four.


Rum is an integral part of life here, from the rum shops in each village to the rum-fuelled Crop Over festival that runs each summer. Yet ever since the country won independence from Britain in 1966 the national image has been more beach tourism than agriculture or technology.

I stayed at the Hilton Barbados to the south of Bridgetown and had few complaints, its private beaches and infinity pools all to hand. But it seemed a shame that its bartenders pushed Cuban mojitos and Puerto Rican piña coladas over classic Barbadian drinks such as the corn’n’oil. That’s two parts aged rum to one part falernum, by the way, falernum being a delicious 18th-century lime-ginger-clove-rum cordial that counts as another of Barbados’s gifts to the world.

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A church at the Foursquare Distillery


At the end of 2021 the Barbadian government finally ditched the British royal family to become a fully independent republic. This has coincided with an increasingly concerted effort to protect and promote Barbadian rum, including a move to create a GI (geographical indication), much like those that govern the sale of champagne, Scotch whisky and, as of 2016, Jamaican rum. Two brand new distilleries are due to open on the island this year.

Rum not only makes a delightful accompaniment to any hike or cruise, it is also a great focus for a trip if you wish to get a handle on the island’s history and culture. “Rum is Barbados and Barbados is rum,” says Don Benn, the master blender at the West Indies Rum Distillery. “It’s inextricably linked to our culture and history.” That history is, of course, bound up with slavery — and visiting the old plantations will bring you face to face with that. “The rum industry is, in general, very honest about the role of slavery,” says Maggie Campbell, the estate manager at Mount Gay. “It’s talked about and acknowledged. Whereas in the American whiskey industry, we never talked about slavery.”


Rum distilleries are marvellous places to visit, a mix of the improbably gimcrack and the highly technical. All four on Barbados offer tours, and each is unique. I particularly liked Foursquare, with its steampunk copper machinery and pastel-coloured paintwork. Do swing by the lovely restaurant Dis Ole House for flying-fish cutters while you’re that way too.

There’s a certain magic even to the West Indies Rum Distillery, a large commercial concern that opens out onto an idyllic beach just north of Bridgetown. It produces 80 per cent of the island’s rum, including the brands Plantation, Stade’s and, erm, Malibu, but it seems there’s still room to experiment. Benn describes his job as being like a “kid in a candy store”. He showed me natural yeasts steadily funkifying in the sun and detailed his attempts to create a viable spirit from coconut water. The machinery looks ancient, but there’s an if-it-ain’t-broke spirit at work.

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St Nicholas Abbey


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St Nicholas Abbey is an 18th-century plantation in the north of the island, centred on a Jacobean manor house. It was bought in 2006 by a Barbadian architect named Larry Warren and his wife, Anna, and they have since turned it into a sort of rum theme park. There’s an extensive narrow-gauge steam railway and a museum including artefacts from pre-Columbian times and the days of slavery.

Warren has taken it upon himself to recreate a field-to-bottle rum operation that works more or less as it would have done at the turn of the 20th century. He grows the cane, grinds it in a water- powered mill, and distils his rum from fresh cane juice: 40 barrels a year. “About as much as Mount Gay spills,” he jokes.


Just over Cherry Tree Hill is Mount Gay, the oldest of them all, and the first to employ a female master blender, Trudiann Branker. It’s wonderfully atmospheric — slats of light falling on copper stills, the heady smell of molasses everywhere. The French owner, the Rémy Cointreau group, has recently bought up the land surrounding the distillery and has set about restoring the old mill and replanting sugar cane. “Drink responsibly!” said our tour guide, Romal, as he led us through a tasting of spirits rich in honey, banana, tobacco and vanilla. “You know what we mean by that? Don’t spill it!”

Rum is very much a social drink in Barbados — there isn’t much of a drink- at-home culture so you will find locals catching up over a “flask” (that’s a 250ml bottle, made especially for the rum shops). There are still well over 1,000 rum shops on the island, some, such as the lively Fisherman’s Pub, selling food, others, like the beachside John Moore’s Bar, with no frills at all. But generally they’re recognisable because they’re built in the classic chattel-house style and painted in bright colours.

The thing to do is order a flask, a bucket of ice and various soft drinks, and do your own mixing. I would heartily recommend the combination of Mount Gay Silver and grapefruit soda as a leveller after a distillery tour. And, whatever you do, take the time to swing by the wilder shores of the Atlantic coast too. A lunch of green banana cou-cou, shark bites and pickled sea cat (octopus) at the Bay Tavern, followed by rum and fresh coconut water from a streetside vendor, was heaven itself.

For the platonic ideal of a beach bar, try La Cabane at night for rum negronis, excellent chicken and the deeply funky house band. But it was that rum punch that really sealed the deal for me — specifically the one served aboard the catamaran, Cool Runnings IV, that took us on a morning tour of the west coast. You’ll want a squirt of lime, a couple of dashes of sugar syrup, a hefty measure of aged Barbadian rum, a huge scoop of ice, some bitters and a grating of fresh nutmeg — which truly lifts it to the heavens. It was after three or four of these, dancing to Rihanna as the boat skimmed through the turquoise water, that I felt two years of pandemic stress fall away. I swear I didn’t have a hangover the whole time I was there.

Richard Godwin was a guest of the Whisky Exchange and Visit Barbados. Seven nights’ B&B from £1,575pp, including flights ( Richard is the author of The Spirits (Square Peg) and a weekly cocktail newsletter of the same name. Go to

Great cocktail-soaked Caribbean holidays

Jamaica Inn, Jamaica

There are plenty of reasons to book a week at the charming old Jamaica Inn in Ochos Rios. First off, it’s like staying in the home of a very posh friend who has an impeccable sense of location — with gorgeous gardens and a private beach from where you can see the sunset. Second, Jamaican Delight cocktails — a legacy of the late Teddy Tucker, bartender here for 60 years until he retired in 2019, during which time he served G&Ts to TS Eliot and champagne cocktails to Marilyn Monroe.
Details Seven nights’ room only from £1,665pp including flights, departing May 1 (

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Hammock Cove, Antigua

Hammock Cove, Antigua

Among its 365 beaches, Antigua has at least a dozen of the Caribbean’s top 50, ranging from heavenly Little Ffryes in the west to the Atlantic-powered reef breaks of St James Bay and Darkwood beach, from where you can see smoke rising from the Soufrière Hills volcano on Montserrat — some 30 miles to the southwest. Montserrat’s national dish is a soup known as goat water, and on Saturdays it’s sold by the cup on Antiguan roadsides — an invitation to have it improved with a tot of rum should be accepted. Stay at the all-inclusive, adults-only, all-suite Hammock Cove in Willikies.
Details Seven nights’ all-inclusive from £1,066pp, including flights, departing on April 30 (

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Pinneys Beach, Nevis


The Hermitage, Nevis


The finest — and oldest — rum punch in the Caribbean is sold in the olde-worlde bar at the Hermitage. The boutique hotel, built in 1670, claims that the mountain oranges it uses give its concoction the edge, offering a sophisticated way to say goodbye to a warm afternoon. The same cannot be said for the signature drink at Sunshine’s Bar and Grill on Pinneys Beach — the Killer Bee, a rum-based creation of which a gentleman should partake no more than two, redefines the term punch-drunk.
Details Seven nights’ B&B from £1,875pp, including flights departing in January (

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The gardens of Cap Maison, St Lucia

Cap Maison, St Lucia

If you’re staying at Cap Maison, the luxury resort in Gros Islet district, on the northern tip of St Lucia, ask to visit the wine cellar, a subterranean space that looks like a place where pirates may have plotted — if you’re really lucky you might be invited to dine down there. But you should save a night for Joe’s Grill and Chill on Pigeon Island Beach — it’s the sort of place you find yourself staring at an empty rum bottle after midnight having merely popped in for a cold one at sunset; try the coconut shrimp.
Details Seven nights’ half-board from £1,852pp, including flights, departing on April 21 (

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Soggy Dollar Bar, the British Virgin Islands


Sail the BVIs

If you’re sailing around the British Virgin Islands, the law states that you have to drop anchor in White Bay on Jost van Dyke and spend an afternoon drinking Painkillers at the Soggy Dollar Bar — now trading again after its destruction in 2017 by Hurricane Irma and making that coconut cocktail with its own branded rum. The bar is so named because there’s no dock, forcing patrons to swim ashore.
Details A seven-night charter of the three-cabin Sunsail 41 from £2,900, based on four sharing and departing on May 22 ( Fly to Tortola

Tour of Cuba (with daiquiris)

The American Club and Venus Restaurant in Santiago de Cuba has long gone, but, at the back end of the 19th century, the mining engineer Jennings Cox mixed rum, limes and sugar to create the queen of Caribbean cocktails: the daiquiri. Hemingway is reputed to have said “my mojito in La Bodeguita, my daiquiri in El Floridita”, but unless you enjoy drinking in tourist traps you won’t enjoy these Havana bars. Instead, order daiquiris at Sia-kara on Industria, opposite the National Capitol building, or Don Eduardo Alegre, overlooking the Plaza Vieja.
Details An eight-day guided group tour with most meals is from £1,399pp, departing on August 5 ( Fly to Havana

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The ocean view from Laluna, Grenada

Laluna, Grenada

Renegade is the world’s newest, greenest rum distillery — owned by the man behind the Isle of Islay’s Bruichladdich whisky. It fired up its stills in 2020, aiming to use only the juice from terroir-grown canes to produce a pure, ecologically friendly rum that reflects the true taste of Grenada. Near by is the water-powered River Antoine distillery, little changed since it was built in 1785 and making rum the same way since the reign of King George III (tours £1; Its rums come in at 138 per cent — the upper limit for carriage on an airline — and 150 per cent proof, and it is nearly impossible to find them off the island. Stay at Laluna, a 16-room hideaway above a white sand beach next to Morne Rouge.
Details Seven nights’ room only from £1,879pp, including flights, departing in May (

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Bloody Bay, Tobago


Blue Waters Inn, Tobago

British Airways relaunched direct flights to Tobago this week, putting Trinidad’s unspoilt little sister back on the travel map for 2022. Ironically, the oil industry has saved Tobago from overdevelopment — tourism accounted for just 2 per cent of GDP in 2019, and along with empty beaches and pristine coral reefs you’ll discover a green island teeming with birdlife. Sunshine’s Bar on the road down to Bloody Bay has views straight into the rainforest, and the birdsong at sundown is astonishing. Stay at the beachside Blue Waters Inn in Speyside — home of the rather agreeable Shipwreck Bar.
Details Seven nights’ B&B from £989pp, including flights, departing on February 14 (

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Shoal Bay East beach, Anguilla


Shoal Bay Villas, Anguilla

Getting to Anguilla was never cheap or straightforward, but that changed last month when American Airlines launched direct flights there from Miami on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays, with daily departures to begin on April 2. That puts some of the world’s finest beach bars within 13 hours of Heathrow — including Garvey’s Sunshine Shack on Rendezvous Bay, Elvis Beach Bar at Sandy Ground, and Gwen’s Reggae Bar and the magnificent Uncle Ernie’s on the dazzling sands of Shoal Bay; sleep within staggering distance at Shoal Bay Villas.
Details Seven nights’ room only from £1,998pp, including flights, departing in May (
Chris Haslam


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The Top Rums From Barbados
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What is Barbados rum called? ›

Mount Gay Rum
Mount Gay Rum logo Mount Gay bottle label
ManufacturerMount Gay Distilleries Ltd.
Country of originBarbados
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What is the national drink of Barbados? ›

On a hot day (and there are many of those in Barbados), many Bajans reach for a refreshing glass of mauby to quench their thirst and cool down. Mauby is made from the bark of the Mauby tree, boiled with cinnamon, orange peel, nutmeg and cloves, and sweetened to taste.

How do they drink rum in Barbados? ›

You may have left the island, but you don't have to stop drinking its produce. Today, rum punches are everywhere on Barbados, while historically the native beverage of choice was the Corn 'n' Oil, a deceptively simple combination of aged rum and the mysterious Barbadian liqueur known as falernum.

Bring a taste of the Caribbean right to your home with a batch of this authentic Barbados rum punch!. Made with Barbados dark rum, freshly squeezed lime juice and the right touch of sweetener, this tropical punch recipe is quick and easy to whip up, and you can make a big pitcher for a crowd or individual drinks.. They were kind enough to share the recipe, and after a little research, I can confirm that this is the authentic Barbados rum punch recipe.. Simple ingredients: We don’t need any fancy syrups or cocktail ingredients.. Nutmeg: This favorite Caribbean spice is our garnish, and we add it directly on top of the drink.. While garnishes are typically optional, I don’t recommend skipping this for an authentic rum punch.. Step 1: We grab a large pitcher and pour in the Barbados rum, water, lime juice and simple syrup as well as add a few dashes of bitters (photo 1).. What is the rhyme for a Barbados rum punch recipe?. Do you need to refrigerate rum punch?. You do not need to refrigerate rum punch and can serve this punch right away .. Absolutely, simply stir together the ingredients directly in the serving glass , add ice and top with nutmeg.. Single cocktails are measured in ounces, but it’s much easier to use cups for batching drinks.. In a large pitcher, add the water, rum, simple syrup, lime juice and bitters.. For a single serving, use 2 ounces water, 1.5 ounces Barbados dark rum, 1 ounce simple syrup, 0.5 ounce lime juice and a dash of bitters.. Stir directly in the serving glass, add ice and top with nutmeg.

Barbados had been a British colony so the island speaks English which means you can have really good conversations with the locals on any subject like football or cricket or rum cocktails.. We stayed on the West coast which boasts some of the best beaches on the island.. The South of the island has a variety of hotels such as Butterfly Beach which is more economical and situated on the beach.. Many boats operate off the beaches – Cool Runnings is a fun 5 hr cruise taking in the turtles and a shipwreck.. Baywatch is a 2 hour trip on a small boat (max 12-15 people) to swim with turtles and the shipwreck.. The good thing about the smaller boats is that they can often leave on time and get to the turtles before the bigger boats arrive, increasing your chances of a sighting.. It was a good trip though my son and I jumped down off the boat giggling and weaving our way down the beach.. All the usual sports activities are on the beach – jet ski, water ski and tube riding.

Except that last December, the Belgians Zeno Madder, 25, and Ramses Jacoby, 27, did just that, making the 2,500-mile trip from Cape Verde off the northwest coast of Africa, to Bridgetown, Barbados after watching video tutorials on the internet.. Zeno Madder, 25, and Ramses Jacoby, 27. ZENO MADDER AND RAMSES JACOBY. ZENO MADDER AND RAMSES JACOBY. Here they picked up a similarly adventurous schoolfriend who wanted to do the trip with them (no, he couldn’t sail either), then sailed to the Canaries (another 300 miles away) before making their way to Cape Verde, about 900 miles south.. A week into the trip, the electric pump that stops seawater from building up inside the boat broke, which meant they took shifts pumping water out of the boat by hand.. Madder and Jacoby are now sailing around the Caribbean, working as diving instructors and selling fish. The schoolfriend left, and now in the Grenadines and with more than 6,000 miles under their belt, Madder and Jacoby are sailing around the Caribbean, working as diving instructors and selling fish.

'There’s a time and a place’ goes the slogan for Mount Gay Rum, and nowhere is the phrase more apt than the home of the world’s oldest commercial rum distiller: Barbados.. Plantation slaves first discovered that molasses, a byproduct of the sugar refining process, could be fermented into a crude liquor that came to be known as ‘kill-devil’ or ‘rumbuillon’, but it wasn’t until 1703 that English businessman Sir John Gay set up the world’s first properly commercial rum venture in Barbados, having refined the distillation process to produce the beverage that is now synonymous with the island itself.. It’s no surprise Barbados has a festival dedicated to rum – ‘rum’ being the key word in the annual Food, Wine & Rum Festival ( ).. Rum is a major player in many other island festivals, such as the August end-of-harvest festival Crop Over, when the entire island essentially transforms into one big, well lubricated party; February’s Holetown Festival commemorating the first settlement of Barbados; and Easter's Oistins Fish Festival , a celebration of the fishing industry.. Located in the hills of St Peter, St Nicholas Abbey is the oldest of Barbados’ plantation houses and has a long history of rum production; its current owners have eschewed modern mechanical systems in favor of the traditional distillation process.. The US$30 ticket price includes entry to the antique-crammed ground floor rooms of the Jacobean style house (built in 1660), a small cinema showing a film of island life in the 1930s, the rum distillery (with tastings) and Cherry Tree Hill, a historic avenue of mahogany trees.. It produced Cockspur rum along with Malibu and Popov vodka for decades before catching the eye of US country artist Kenny Chesney, who in 2013 channeled his love of island life into his own brand of rum blends (think: coconut spiced, banana cream) under the label Blue Chair Bay Rum ( ).. Numbering more than 1500 across the island (with at least one in every village), Barbadian rum shops are as much a part of the island as the pub is to Britain.. Barbadian rum shop run by the aunt of champion UK boxer Nigel Benn © Sarah Reid / Lonely Planet Cruising alongside the west coast of Barbados with a rum punch in hand is one of the most popular day trips on the island.. On top of its rum shops, Barbados has plenty of bars, and you’d be hard-pressed to find any that don’t serve rum!

So, with that in mind, you’ll get some idea of how they roll in this part of the world when I tell you the front of John Moore Bar – with its tarmac views, soundtrack of grumbling traffic and immediate access to beer and rum – was packed, while the beach-view tables were empty.. if you want to know anything about Barbados and its inhabitants, you need to know about its rum shops. “Rum shops are the cornerstone of the community,” explains Darrio Prescod, who also goes by the name ‘Mr Mount Gay’ and is the brand ambassador for the country’s oldest brand of rum.. Put simply, if you want to know anything about Barbados and its inhabitants, you need to know about its rum shops – and you need to know about rum.. Instead, the places where islanders go to pay tribute to the spirit their predecessors created are the rum shops, and as I discover as I travel around the island visiting them, they themselves are a distillation of the island’s people – laid-back, totally charming and welcoming to anyone and everyone.. “You can pull up at a rum shop and meet someone you don’t know, and you could soon be sharing a bottle of rum and having an argument about cricket.. John Moore Bar, Weston, St James (north west). One of the island’s best rum punches.. Nigel Benn Aunty Bar, St Andrew (north east). Right opposite the Friday night fish fry action in Oistins, when it’s busy, bustling and a great place for a post-meal rum or beer.. Rum's not just a drink.

An icon of Caribbean rum from its earliest days, the island is still home to some of its best producers, as well as many inimitable places to enjoy a glass or two, including the local answer to the pub, the rum shop.. This is greatly simplified as each rum shop is brightly painted through the largesse of brands: red for Banks beer, green for Heineken or Stag beers, red and yellow for Mount Gay rum, white for Malibu rum, cream and red for Old Brigand rum and on and on, always sporting the company logo on every available surface.. There are four distilleries operating today on Barbados: Foursquare, Mount Gay, St. Nicholas Abbey and West Indies Rum Distillery.. The West Indies plant, recently purchased by Maison Ferrand for its expanding Plantation rum operations, is situated right on the beach as if in a rum drinker’s dream, but it’s not currently open to the public.. On a recent visit to Barbados, I found my rum shop spirit animal.. And when you’ve finally been worn down by the allure of upmarket restaurants, your best bet is Primo Bar & Bistro , with modern decor, Caribbean-inflected Italian cuisine and an excellent rum selection on the back bar.. Admiring Barbados rum without knowing about Foursquare is like digging both Paul Newman and Robert Redford but never getting around to watching “Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.” R. L. Seale & Co. , which owns and operates the Foursquare distillery, a producer known for brands such as Doorly’s, The Real McCoy, R. L. Seale’s, E.S.A.. St. Nicholas Abbey rum bottling.. The distillery is an unprecedented opportunity for the rum nerd, as it eschews a carefully curated PR presentation for a self-guided tour that allows you to scrutinize the actual factory where rum is being made right that minute.. The most elegant of Barbados’ working rum factories also stands out for its unique approach to manufacturing, bottling its rum directly from the barrel, without blending.. The rum punch is excellent, and a range of well-executed rum mixed drinks are available.. Today, rum punches are everywhere on Barbados, while historically the native beverage of choice was the Corn ’n’ Oil , a deceptively simple combination of aged rum and the mysterious Barbadian liqueur known as falernum.

Method: Combine the lime juice, syrup, rum, water, and bitters, and stir well in a tall pitcher.. Rum Punch.. Jolly Roger.. Method: Combine the lime juice, syrup, rum, water, and bitters, and stir well in a tall pitcher.. Jolly Roger Party Cruise.. Everywhere you go in Barbados you’ll be offered rum punch and there’s a saying for the recipe; “One of Sour, Two of Sweet, Three of Strong and Four of Weak.” At the Mount Gay Rum distillery you get to learn all about how their world famous rum is made, but really it’s an opportunity to taste lots and lots of rum.

My friends and I love to go cliff diving at Bottom Bay Beach Barbados is the most easterly island in the Caribbean and has fantastic daily nonstop airlift from New York – making it a breeze to get there.. YUM Rum Punch!Sandy Lane Barbados What I also love about the location of our house is that it’s a stone’s throw from the best rum punch on the island, served at Cutters!. Over the holiday season the hotel [above] is closed to non-guests to keep the paparazzi out, but since all beaches in Barbados are public, you can walk to Sandy Lane beach from other spots to for some celebrity spotting.. Oistins Fish Market. Visit the Oistins Fish Market on a Friday or Saturday night and enjoy the excitement and buzz of Barbados’ most popular market place.. Open House Program. The Barbados National Trust’s Open House program enables the public and visitors alike to visit Barbadian private homes, ranging from historic treasures and amusing abodes, to lap-of-luxury mansions.. 15 (i) Barbados Golf Club: In June 2000, Barbados’ first championship public golf course opened.. 15 (v) Almond Beach Club Resort Golf Course: The Almond Beach golf course is the only course on the island featuring a par-three, nine-hole layout.. The Barbados National Trust is restoring the house and outlying buildings, creating a heritage site on the historic Garrison, celebrating the visit and the role that Barbados played in the settlement of America.. Sunbathing at Crane Beach. There is nothing better than getting a large fluffy beach towel from your suite in the luxurious Crane Hotel and strolling over to the pure, white, sandy beach on the ocean side of the Island.


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