Strawberry Plant Diseases: Problems Caused by Bacteria, Fungi, Molds, and Viruses (2022)

Strawberry diseases can affect the fruit, flowers, leaves, roots, and crowns of strawberry plants, and sometimes cause the collapse of the whole plant. While many of the problems caused by bacteria, fungi, molds, and viruses can be treated when symptoms are observed, some of the most serious strawberry plant diseases cannot be treated after the plants are in the ground. But home growers and organic growers will find many organic options that reduce strawberry diseases, even if they don’t eliminate them, in the A to Z listing below.

Jump to:
  • Angular Leaf Spot
  • Anthracnose
  • Leather Rot Causes Brown Spots on Strawberries
  • Bortrytis Fruit Rot
  • Charcoal Rot (also known as Macrophomina)
  • Fusarium Wilt
  • Leaf Blotch
  • Mucor Fruit Rot
  • Pallidosis-Related Decline
  • Phytophthera Rot
  • Powdery Mildew
  • Verticillium Wilt

Angular Leaf Spot

Angular leaf spot first appears as water-soaked lesions on the undersides of leaves and calyxes around the fruit. As the bacterial ooze dries, the next thing you will see is a white powder, followed by purple or red discoloration of the leaf at an angle from the stem to which it is attached. There will be yellowing (chlorosis) around the damaged area of the leaf.

Strawberry Plant Diseases: Problems Caused by Bacteria, Fungi, Molds, and Viruses (1)

Sometimes this infection with Xanthomonas fragariae bacteria can cause the entire plant to die suddenly, but this is rare. This condition usually doesn’t have a major impact on fruit production by itself, but it can be one among many factors that keep you from getting a good crop. Commercial growers who ship their strawberries across state lines will find their products under quarantine if inspectors find angular leaf spot, so they have to keep this problem under control.

Plant sprays containing copper control angular leaf spots in young plants. An antibiotic for plants called validamycin can control the problem in mature plants. But if you are raising strawberries for home consumption, the most practical approach is soil management.

The bacterium that causes angular leaf spot can only survive on plant matter. If cannot grow on vermiculite or rock used in hydroponic growing, it won’t survive the winter if strawberry plants and their roots are removed from the ground or their growing containers.


Anthracnose is a fungal infection that can attack the crown, stems, leaves, and fruit of strawberry plants. You can recognize anthracnose by the orange ooze of spores it forms on the parts of the plant it kills. These spores are spread by overhead splashing water. If you don’t have any rain and you don’t do any overhead watering after the fruit has set, you can at least save your crop, although plants may be damaged.

Strawberry Plant Diseases: Problems Caused by Bacteria, Fungi, Molds, and Viruses (2)

This fungus can survive in the ground for up to nine months after the strawberry plant on which was growing dies. It’s important not to leave infected plants in the ground or to turn them under after they die. It’s OK to compost anthracnose-infected strawberry plants if your compost pile heats up enough to kill pathogens.

Preventing the spread of anthracnose begins with your selection of the strawberry plants you put out. Don’t buy plants that were grown in the ground or irrigated with overhead sprinklers. You can kill any anthracnose that transplants may have acquired in the nursery by immersing the plants in hot water as soon as you get them home, but this method only works if you have a thermometer and you keep track of time.

First, it is important to soak your transplants in a warm water bath, 85 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit (about 30 degrees Celsius) for 30 minutes so they won’t be shocked when you put them in hot water. Then your strawberry transplants need to be immersed in water heated to 113 to 115 degrees Fahrenheit (45-46 degrees Celsius), no hotter and no colder, for 10 minutes, no less and no longer. Leaving the plants in their hot water bath too long may damage them, and not heating the water hot enough will not kill the fungus. Finally, your plants need to be allowed to cool off at room temperature for half an hour before you transplant them.

Alternatively, you could dip transplants into a mixture of the fungicides Abound (azoxystrobin) or Switch (cyprodinil + fludioxonil).

It’s possible to pretreat the soil into which you are planting strawberries with the fungicide InLine (1,3-dichloropropene + chloropicrin) to reduce anthracnose problems. If you do this, you should scatter the product over the entire patch rather than concentrating it near plants. Commercial strawberry growers used to fumigate the soil with methyl bromide plus InLine to stop anthracnose, although this chemical combination is decidedly toxic to more than just the fungus.

(Video) Strawberry Plant Diseases: Problems Caused by Bacteria, Fungi, Molds, and Viruses

Another approach to preparing the soil is to “solarize” it by covering it with black plastic the summer before planting. This approach works in hot, sunny summer climates. If you grow strawberries during the summer, you won’t get good results from solarizing during the winter.

Once you get your strawberry plants in the ground, it’s important to avoid overhead watering that causes splashing. Drip irrigation or micro-sprinkler systems are preferable.

There are no “organic” fungicides that kill anthracnose, but you may be able to reduce the problem by choosing your location for planting strawberries carefully. One of the ways anthracnose is spread to strawberries from other plants that harbor the disease but are not damaged by it. Tomatoes, zinnias, peppers, celery, delphiniums, and vetch planted near your strawberry plant can keep it infected with anthracnose. Close proximity to almond trees and pines can also be a problem.

Leather Rot Causes Brown Spots on Strawberries

Strawberry Plant Diseases: Problems Caused by Bacteria, Fungi, Molds, and Viruses (3)

Leather rot is a relatively common pathogenic fungus (Phytophthora cactorum) that can affect strawberries in any stage of development. It can infect green strawberries. It can infect ripe strawberries. And, it typically only causes minimal damage to commercial farmers. However, home gardeners can lose many strawberries to the fungus if care isn’t taken to avoid infection.

Infection of healthy fruit and subsequent brown spots on strawberries from leather rot typically happens during periods of wet weather. Rainy April, May, and June weather set the stage for infection. The spores of the fungus stay in the soil and can infect strawberries when there are periods of extended wetness. If water remains in contact with fruit for an hour when the temperature is between 62 and 77 degrees Fahrenheit, infection is likely if spores are present. Brown spots on strawberries will come soon after infection as the pathogenic fungus sets up shop in your fruit.

Brown spots on strawberries are most easily seen on immature fruit. If the fruit is still green or white, the spots will be most visible. Ripe fruit can get leather rot also. However, the brown spots will not usually be as noticeable. Sometimes, the discoloration will even be a purple color or just a darkening of the strawberry in the infected area. Usually, along with discoloration, there will be an odor and unpleasant taste in infected berries.

How to Prevent Brown Spots on Strawberries

Preventing leather rot infections is the key to harvesting healthy strawberries.

  1. The first and critical step is to pick a location for your strawberry bed that is well-drained. Good soil drainage prevents standing water. The absence of standing water makes difficult for the fungus to remain in contact with strawberries long enough to infect them.
  2. Use a thick barrier mulch. A good layer of clean straw can prevent the spread of leather rot. Clean straw help reduce or eliminate splash from rain. It can assist in drainage. And, it keeps the strawberries themselves from resting on the soil where the pathogenic fungus lurks.
  3. Avoid shade. Plant your strawberries in full sun to minimize the conditions favorable to fungal infection.
  4. Plant the rows parallel to the direction of the prevailing winds. Most locations receive there weather, more or less, from the same general direction. If you plant your strawberry rows with the prevailing wind, the fruit and leaves of your strawberry plants will dry more quickly.
  5. Avoid excessively dense plantings. Be sure to maintain adequate space between your strawberry plants to facilitate drying. Additionally, inappropriate application of nitrogen fertilizer can cause dense vegetative growth that will shade the berries (see 2. above!) and create an environment conducive to infection.
  6. Pick fruit early. As soon as the plants dry each day, go picking! Removing the strawberries as soon as possible during the day can reduce infections.
  7. Watch for and remove fruits with any brown spots on strawberries. It is vital for the health of remaining plants that strawberries with brown spots be removed as quickly as possible from the strawberry patch. If strawberries with leather rot are left in the field, the causal organism will multiply and spread.
  8. As a last approach, fungicides can be used.

Pay attention to your strawberries! If they get brown spots, cull them as soon as possible. Leather rot can be a pain in the neck. If you set up your strawberry bed in a way that helps the fungus instead of impairing it, remedy as many factors as you can. Good luck!

Bortrytis Fruit Rot

Strawberry Plant Diseases: Problems Caused by Bacteria, Fungi, Molds, and Viruses (4)

Bortrytis fruit rot is a problem for strawberry growers all over the world. This ubiquitous fungus can attack fruit before or after harvest, transforming a beautiful red and juicy strawberry into an unappetizing and infectious mass of gray mold in just hours. Bortrytis fruit rot also attacks strawberry flowers. In conditions of relatively low temperatures, between 58 to 72° F (15 to 22° C), and high humidity, up to 80 percent of your crop can be lost to bortrytis fruit rot.

Bortrytis spores land on mature leaves and wait for them to die. As the leaf matures and begins to decay, the fungus produces spores that land in flowers. They may kill the flower outright, or land deep inside stamens where they lie dormant waiting for the fruit to form and start producing sugars. As the strawberry becomes sweeter, the fungi grow. The characteristic gray mold may become noticeable before or after the fruit is harvested.

One way to stop the growth of bortrytis on ripe strawberries is to chill them immediately after harvest. Waiting even an hour can give the fungus a chance to destroy the newly picked fruit. Strawberries need to be chilled to between 32 to 37° F (0 to 3° C) and held at those temperatures until just before they are eaten. If you see a moldy berry in a clamshell or a flat, remove it immediately to prevent contamination of all the other strawberries in the container.

(Video) Understanding Different Pathogens in the Orchard: Bacteria, Fungi and Viruses

If gray mold is a repeat problem in garden strawberries, try spacing them out so more air can circulate around the leaves and flowers, creating an environment in which mold cannot flourish. Or grow your strawberries in hanging baskets. If you are growing strawberries in a raised bed, plant them along the edges so their runners hang over the edge and get more air and sunshine. Remove “mummy berries” that can spread the fungus to other plants.

If you are growing your strawberries in a greenhouse, turn up the heat two to four times a week so your plants spend the night at about 77° F *(25° C). This will discourage the growth of the fungus. Make sure your fans are on a timer so there is adequate airflow over your crop.

Sometimes it is possible to fight fungi with beneficial bacteria. Sprays of Bacillus subtilis QST 713 (sold under the brand names Cease and Serenade). Streptomyces griseoviridis (sold under the brand name Mycostop), and Streptomyces lydicus WYEC 108 (sold under the brand name Actinovate AG) applied before any signs of Bortrytis infestation will help. So, will sprays of potassium bicarbonate keep the surface of leaves and flowers too alkaline for the growth of the fungus? The bacterial sprays and potassium bicarbonate are non-toxic and may be acceptable for organic certification. (Ask your agricultural extension agent for the exact details of regulations in your state or province.)

Commercial strawberry growers often attempt to control bortrytis gray mold with toxic chemical agents. The problem with trying poison gray mold is that it reproduces so often that mutations occur that it has the ability to resist fungicides. Among the fungicides that are unlikely to be helpful are fenhexamid (sold under the brand name Elevate), pyraclostrobin + boscalid (sold under the brand name Pristine), cyprodinil + fludioxonil (sold under the brand name Switch), and thiophanate-methyl (sold under the brand name Topsin). Your extension agent can help you find fungicides that are still effective against bortrytis gray mold in your area.

Charcoal Rot (also known as Macrophomina)

Charcoal rot is a disease of strawberries also known as Macrophomina (capitalized because the name is taken from the scientific name of the fungus). It is caused by the fungus Macrophomina phaesolina. This fungal infection has the same symptoms as another fungal disease of strawberries, Fusarium wilt. Charcoal rot comes from the soil into the roots and infects the crown of the plant. At first, growth will be stunted but the plant will be green. Then all the leaves except those closest to the crown die, and finally, the crown itself dries up into orange and brown plant matter.

Charcoal rot tends to occur when strawberries get so much water that their roots don’t get enough oxygen, and when plants are under extreme stress from heat and drought. It can also take over when strawberry plants are invaded by mites, which are also more common during heat and drought.

Plowing infected strawberry plants back into the soil perpetuates the disease, but it is not just strawberry plants that can be affected. Charcoal rot also occurs in about 500 vegetables and grains, including alfalfa, corn, chickpea, cabbage, peanut, pepper, sorghum, sweet potato, and wheat. The soil in which any of these plants has been grown may be contaminated.

Getting rid of charcoal rot is challenging with organic methods. Solarization, covering the ground with black plastic to let summer sun heat and sterilize it, may help. Rotating strawberries and other susceptible plants with broccoli or mustard plants reduces the number of charcoal rot spores in the soil, as does working mustard plant meal (the vegetable, not the condiment) into the soil.

If you can find them, plant Chandler or Seascape strawberry plants. They have some resistance to charcoal rot. And always be careful to avoid bringing contaminated soil or compost into your strawberry patch.

Fusarium Wilt

Strawberry Plant Diseases: Problems Caused by Bacteria, Fungi, Molds, and Viruses (5)

Fusarium wilt is a fungal disease that can wipe out your entire strawberry crop. Caused by the fungus Fusarium oxysporum, this common strawberry disease shows up in hot and dry weather. It can cause slow growth, stunting, wilting of older leaves, and discoloration of crowns. It may just reduce your yields, or, if your plants are under stress from heat and drought, kill your entire strawberry bed or strawberry field.

Fusarium wilt is a soilborne condition. It’s the kind of pathogen you can bring into your strawberry patch with contaminated soil or compost. Rototiller blades, shovels, hoes, and plows on tractors can carry the fungus from one field to another. Leaving dead leaves, roots, or fruit from infected plants on the soil or turning it under at the end of the growing season can perpetuate the problem for the next growing season. A minor problem one year can result in the complete destruction of your crop the next.

(Video) Plant Common Diseases caused by Bacteria, Fungi, and Pest. PREVENTION AND CURE with OrganiCure+

So, what can you do about this persistent, potentially devastating strawberry disease?

  • Solarize your soil by placing black plastic over your strawberry bed the summer before you plant. The heat will kill pathogenic bacteria and fungi in the soil.
  • Plant varieties of strawberries that have some resistance to Fusarium wilt, such as San Andreas and Ventana.
  • Always buy high-quality transplants from nurseries that can tell you how they protect their stock from Fusarium wilt.
  • Alternate your strawberry patch with a broccoli patch. Residues from broccoli suppress the Fusarium fungus.
  • If you feed your strawberry plants compost, make sure any plant matter in it is completely decomposed. The Fusarium fungus feeds on the process of decay and won’t grow once decomposition is complete.
  • Don’t use tools that have been exposed to plants that had wilt around plants that have not been exposed to wilt unless you disinfect them with bleach first.
  • Be kind to your plants. Make sure they are adequately irrigated. Treat spider mites. Shelter them from extremes of heat and drought.

Everything about Fusarium oxysporum isn’t bad. The fungus has the ability to dissolve gold from soil and coat itself in gold leaf. If you happen to be gardening over a literal gold mine, Fusarium wilt will let you know about your mineral riches.

Leaf Blotch

Leaf blotch is a fungal disease that is transmitted by raindrops that hit the ground and splash up to the leaves of the plant. It causes gray to tan blotches on older leaves, and it can sometimes damage the calyx, the green leaves around a strawberry fruit. The strawberry will still be edible, but it will not be as attractive. A diagnostic test for leaf blotch is the presence of tiny black or brown fruiting bodies in affected leaves.

Leaf blotch is not something you treat. It’s something you prevent by planting your strawberries through a sheet of plastic mulch. Perforated red plastic mulch prevents soil-borne diseases from reaching the above-ground parts of the plant and results in larger, sweeter fruit.

Mucor Fruit Rot

Strawberry Plant Diseases: Problems Caused by Bacteria, Fungi, Molds, and Viruses (6)

Tiny injuries on the surface of a ripe strawberry let the fungus that causes Mucor fruit rot inside multiply and destroy the berry. (The term “Mucor” is capitalized because it refers to the part of the scientific name of the fungus.) Within a few hours, the fungus will liquify the strawberry. Then what is left of the fruit will be covered with white furry spikes that will eventually bear black spores.

There aren’t any fungicides that treat Mucor fruit rot. You can greatly reduce the disease by making sure that you handle ripe fruit gently, so it is not bruised or cut. You also need to be sure to remove the entire berry from the strawberry plant. Leaving the crown of the berry attached to the plant leaves many entry points for Mucor fruit rot spores that may be floating in the air. Unfortunately, once the berry is damaged, there is no way to protect it from Mucor fruit rot, even in cold storage. It’s important to treat ripe strawberries gently.

Rhizopus Fruit Rot

Rhizopus fruit rot is a strawberry disease remarkably similar to Mucor fruit rot, except Rhizopus spores will appear dry and Mucor spores will appear to be incased in some kind of slime when you inspect diseased berries with a magnifying glass. Unlike Mucor fruit rot, Rhizopus fruit rot is stopped when strawberries are put in cold storage.

Pallidosis is a viral disease of strawberries transmitted by aphids and whiteflies. Viruses in this family can cause strawberry mottle, strawberry crinkle, strawberry vein banding, and strawberries with yellow edges. Your plants may produce fewer runners but there is no damage to fruit and little reduction in fruit production. Sometimes the virus increases growth in the top of the plant, making it top-heavy. If you can control aphids and whiteflies, you can control this viral disease.

Phytophthera Rot

Phytophthera rot is a relatively rare but devastating disease in your strawberry plant. Early in the year, plants affected by phytophthera show stunted growth. At some point when the weather has warmed and the plant has grown, the whole plant will suddenly collapse.

Phytophthera is a “water mold.” It grows readily on free water and in water-soaked strawberry beds and strawberry fields. Water-soaked soil enables this pathogen to produce sporangia that quickly release billions of “spores,” more accurately described as zoospores, because they can swim through standing water.

When this happens, the mold that had affected just one or two plants can quickly spread to every other plant in your strawberry planting. The mold destroys the roots of the plant, and when the roots are no longer functional, the plant dies.

(Video) Strawberry Disease Management

Once this mold has taken over your patch or field, its spores can lie dormant in the soil for years until they find a new host. Phytophthera infects not just strawberries, but over 200 other plants, including potatoes, peppers, plants in the Cabbage Family, and asparagus.

Chemical treatments for phytophthera such as mefenoxam (Ridomil Gold) and phosphonates (Aliette, Fosphite, and others) are systemic. They have to be absorbed by the entire plant. But you may be able to avoid outbreaks of phytophthera simply by preventing standing water: Stop sprinkler leaks, don’t let equipment create ruts in your strawberry bed, and don’t irrigate plants by flooding. Just avoiding overwatering can make a huge difference in your strawberry plants’ vulnerability to this devastating disease.

Powdery Mildew

Strawberry Plant Diseases: Problems Caused by Bacteria, Fungi, Molds, and Viruses (7)

The first signs of powdery mildew are white, fluffy patches on leaves. Young leaves will curl upward. As the colony of mildew grows and ages, leaves will turn first purple and then red on their lower surface and then show purple, red, and brown blotches on their upper surface. Powdery mildew seldom affects mature leaves because it prefers young, growing tissue.

When the mildew colony has taken over a leaf, it produces spores. These spores land on flowers. The deformed flowers are also covered with white, fluffy patches and fail to develop properly so they do not bear fruit. When powdery mildew spores land on immature fruit, they also stop developing. Fruit at a later stage of development, about 10 or 15 days after flowering, is immune to powdery mildew, but the seeds can be infected. Mature strawberries affected by mildew have a “seedy” appearance and a moldy flavor.

Powdery mildew is usually something you bring into your garden or onto your farm through infected transplants. It grows faster in warm (60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, or about 16 to 26 degrees Celsius) humid conditions, but droplets of moisture on leaves from rain or overhead irrigation inhibit it. Direct sunlight also reduces the growth of mildew.

What can you do to stop powdery mildew on your strawberries?

  • Be selective about where you get your plants. It’s better to buy plants that have been out in the sun instead of plants you find in a damp, poorly ventilated greenhouse.
  • Buy cultivars that are more resistant to powdery mildew. There are no strawberries that are immune to the disease, but Albion, Chandler, Florida Radiance, San Andreas, Seascape, and Sweet Ann strawberries are more resistant to mildew than Camarosa, Monterey, and Ventana strawberries.
  • Protect your plants from powdery mildew with preventive applications of micronized sulfur or some of the same soaps used for protection from insects. Both of these relatively non-toxic products have to be applied before powdery mildew appears. Using these products more often than once ever 14 days reduces fruit production. Baking soda in water (a tablespoon, or about 15 grams, in a gallon, or about 4 liters, of water) also helps.
  • There are a number of fungicides that kill powdery mildew, including Abound, Pristine, Merivon Quintec, Rally 40 W, and Torino. The cost of these products could be greater than the value of your strawberries if you are a home gardener, and you should consult your agriculture extension agent about produce selection if you are a commercial strawberry farmer. Organic methods, of course, also work in commercial production.

Verticillium Wilt

Verticillium is a fungus that can lie dormant in the soil for years until it detects the presence of a healthy strawberry plant less than 2 millimeters (about 1/10 of an inch) away. When this occurs, the fungus will grow long hyphae that start to feed on the plant.

The strawberry plant will be severely stunted, but it is possible that neighboring plants will grow around it if you aren’t planting your strawberries too far apart. If verticillium wilt is a continuing problem in your garden or on your farm, try to locate strawberries of the cultivars Albion or Camino Real which is more resistant to the disease. There are no fungicides that can control verticillium wilt once it is in the soil.

Learn everything about growing strawberries from the Strawberry Master Manual, also don't forget to follow me on Pinterest and Facebook to stay updated with everything I post. We also have a Strawberry gardening group on Facebook! Feel free to join.


What are the causes of strawberry plant disease? ›

Strawberry plants are most susceptible to disease-causing organisms when stressed. Stress results from planting in clay or high salt soil, incorrect planting depth, too much or too little water, too much heat, reflective heat, too much shade, winter drying, and frost heaving.

What causes strawberries to mold? ›

Gray mold of strawberries is caused by a fungus, Botrytis cinerea, which infects both the flowers and fruits. Because of this, Botrytis can greatly reduce fruit yields and is considered one of the most damaging diseases of strawberry.

What problems do strawberries have? ›

Anthracnose. Anthracnose is a fungal infection that can attack the crown, stems, leaves, and fruit of strawberry plants. You can recognize anthracnose by the orange ooze of spores it forms on the parts of the plant it kills. These spores are spread by overhead splashing water.

What is strawberry virus? ›

Virus complex consisting of whitefly-transmitted viruses, Strawberry pallidosis associated virus (SPaV) or Beet pseudo yellows virus (BPYV), in combination with any one of several non-whitefly transmitted viruses.

What does mold on strawberries look like? ›

Is it OK to eat moldy strawberries? If you find white fluffy stuff on your berries that looks a bit like cotton candy, that is mold. Mold is a fungus with spores that feed on the berries and grow thin threads that can look like fluff or cotton.

How do you prevent mold on strawberries? ›

A quick bath in hot water will also work to destroy bacteria and mold spores. Dunk your berries in water between 120°F and 140°F for approximately 30 seconds. Dry and store them in the same way you would after a vinegar wash.

Do strawberries mold? ›

Strawberries are a delicious fruit, one of the first berries to enjoy in the spring. But if they aren't stored properly, they can mold.

What is the mold? ›

Mold is a fungal growth that forms and spreads on various kinds of damp or decaying organic matter. There are many different mold species that come in many different colors. Molds are sometimes referred to as mildew. They are found both indoors and outdoors in all climates, during all seasons of the year.

How is strawberry disease treated? ›

Once common leaf spot develops on strawberry plants, the plants cannot be cured. If the disease is detected early, its development may be slowed using fungicides. Keep in mind however, that common leaf spot is often merely a cosmetic issue and the use of fungicides may not be warranted.

Which type of plant is strawberry? ›

strawberry, (genus Fragaria), genus of more than 20 species of flowering plants in the rose family (Rosaceae) and their edible fruit. Strawberries are native to the temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere, and cultivated varieties are widely grown throughout the world.

What insects eat strawberry plants? ›

The most common strawberry pests are slugs, strawberry bud weevils, tarnished plant bugs, spittlebugs, and strawberry sap bugs. Here's a look at organic, non-chemical methods for controlling each.

Do strawberries carry viruses? ›

Berries of all types are actually a common conduit for viruses, said Benjamin Chapman, a food-safety specialist and an associate professor at North Carolina State University. Over the past decade, there have been several virus outbreaks linked to imported berries, he said.

Are strawberries causing hepatitis? ›

Contaminated organic strawberries have been linked to a multi-state outbreak of hepatitis-A (hep-A) in the U.S and Canada.

How do you clean strawberries? ›

Simple sink rinse: The simplest and quickest way to wash strawberries is to rinse each berry thoroughly with cold, running tap water. Place your strawberries in a colander, then run them under cold water as you rub each strawberry gently to remove lingering dirt.

When do strawberries mold? ›

The one on the kitchen counter will likely begin becoming moldy in a day or two if it isn't refrigerated. For more related information, see the “Care After Picking” section on the Strawberry Picking page or the Strawberry Buying Guide. This is a question submitted to by a reader.

How long until strawberries grow mold? ›

Within 48 hours of picking, healthy berries may become an infected, rotting mass.

How do you prevent fruit mold? ›

As our own Kat Kinsman explains, "To prevent mold growth and extend berries' freshness, rinse them in a mixture of one cup white vinegar and four cups of water, then drain and dry them thoroughly." Store them as you would unwashed berries, on top of a dry paper towel in an open container in the fridge.

Can you grow strawberries from moldy strawberries? ›

You can try, but planting a whole strawberry isn't a good idea. Strawberries contain a lot of water and they decay rapidly, so if you just plant a strawberry straight into the soil, it's more likely that the strawberry flesh with rot and grow mold which will also destroy the seeds before the seeds get chance to sprout.

Why does fruit mold so fast? ›

High moisture produce

"Anything with a high moisture content molds relatively quickly," Alibrandi says. Since many fruits and vegetables are primarily made of water, this makes them especially susceptible. Some of the most common culprits are berries, tomatoes, peaches, plums, and mushrooms.

Is mold bacteria or fungi? ›

Molds include all species of microscopic fungi that grow in the form of multicellular filaments, called hyphae. Molds can thrive on any organic matter, including clothing, leather, paper, and the ceilings, walls and floors of homes with moisture management problems.

What are molds fungi? ›

Molds are a natural part of the environment and can be found almost anywhere that moisture and oxygen are present. They belong to the kingdom Fungi and live in moist places such as soil, plants and dead or decaying matter.

Is mold a bacteria? ›

This versatile and diverse mold species is often misclassified as a bacteria, however, ultimately mold is a fungus that grows in the form of multicellular filaments called hyphae.

What causes yellow leaves on strawberry plants? ›

The old agricultural rule of thumb is that strawberry plants with yellow leaves indicate nitrogen deficient soil. However, while purple leaves often indicate a phosphorus deficiency, nitrogen deficiency can also cause purple leaves in addition to strawberries' yellow leaves.

What are the 3 types of strawberries? ›

3 Basic Types of Strawberries
  • 1 • June-Bearing Strawberry Varieties. June-bearing varieties initiate fruit buds in fall and blossom the following spring. ...
  • 2 • Everbearing (Day-Neutral) Strawberry Varieties. Day-neutral varieties produce fruit all summer, hence their alternate name, everbearing. ...
  • 3 • Alpine Strawberries.

What is the scientific name of strawberry? ›

Is strawberry a flower? ›

As noted, strawberries form from a flower that has many ovaries. This makes them a complex fruit, much like blackberries or raspberries. Actual berries, though, are what are known as “simple fruits”, meaning they form from a flower that has only one ovary, such as grapes.

Do strawberries have worms? ›

A viral TikTok challenge shows people testing their strawberries to see if bugs live inside.

What causes holes in strawberry leaves? ›

There are holes in your strawberry leaves because a pest has been feeding on them. The most likely culprits are earwigs, but slugs, caterpillars, weevils, and other pests can also cause damage to the leaves.

What eats strawberry plant roots? ›

Strawberry root weevil (Otiorhynchus ovatus)

The weevil is about ¼ of an inch long and dark brown in color. The abdomen is quite rounded and in when viewed in profile, the weevil's short snout can be easily seen. The larvae feed on small roots of wild and cultivated strawberries, brambles and some ornamental plants.

How do you treat strawberry disease? ›

Once common leaf spot develops on strawberry plants, the plants cannot be cured. If the disease is detected early, its development may be slowed using fungicides. Keep in mind however, that common leaf spot is often merely a cosmetic issue and the use of fungicides may not be warranted.

What do you spray on strawberry plants? ›

Use a homemade spray made from garlic or hot pepper mixed with water to spray plants. Use neem oil or a citrus-based insecticidal oil to prevent infestations. Spray plants with insecticidal soap.

What causes brown spots on strawberry leaves? ›

Leaf scorch is caused by the fungus Diplocarpon earliana. Symptoms of leaf scorch consist of numerous small, irregular, purplish spots or “blotches” that develop on the upper surface of leaves. The centers of the blotches become brownish.

How do you get rid of leaf spots? ›

  1. Prune and remove heavily affected leaves. ...
  2. Provide frequent treatment of neem oil or another fungicide to the foliage. ...
  3. Avoid getting water onto the leaves as it recovers.
  4. Keep the plant away from other plants temporarily. ...
  5. Monitor daily to ensure the infection has stopped spreading.

What is powdery mildew? ›

Powdery mildew is a common fungus that affects a wide variety of plants. It is easily identified and appears as light grey or white powdery spots usually found on infected leaves, but can also be found underneath, or on stems, flowers, fruit or vegetables.

What is best fertilizer for strawberries? ›

Specifically, strawberry plants rely heavily on nitrogen. You can use a fertilizer containing only nitrogen such as urea (46-0-0) or ammonium nitrate (33-0-0). Another option is to use a balanced fertilizer such as a 12-12-12.

Can I spray vinegar on strawberry plants? ›

To kill aphids, mix vinegar with water at a 1:3 ratio and spray it on your strawberry plants. Be careful to cover the stems and undersides of the leaves where aphids like to hide. Repeat the process a week later to kill them all. Insecticidal soap spray is another effective alternative.

How do you clean strawberries? ›

Simple sink rinse: The simplest and quickest way to wash strawberries is to rinse each berry thoroughly with cold, running tap water. Place your strawberries in a colander, then run them under cold water as you rub each strawberry gently to remove lingering dirt.

On this page you can find basic information about scientific classification of strawberries, strawberry plant anatomy, the history of strawberry plants, strawberry plant diseases and pests, the nutritional value of strawberries, and more!. Kingdom:Plantae (Plants)Subkingdom:Tracheobionta (Vascular Plants)Division:Magnoliophyta (Flowering Plants)Superdivision:Spermatophyta (Seed Plants)Class:Magnoliopsida (Dicotyledons)Subclass:RosidaeOrder:RosalesFamily:Rosaceae (Rose Family)Subfamily:RosoideaeTribe:PotentilleaeSubtribe:FragariinaeGenus:Fragaria (Strawberry)Species:over 20 different speciesWhen it comes to differentiating and classifying the numerous strawberry plant species, the number of chromosomes the plant has is the key.. The varying names for Fragaria vesca include: the woodland strawberry, wood strawberry, wild strawberry, European strawberry, fraises des bois, and alpine strawberry (more specifically, the alpine strawberry plant is generally understood to be of the cultivated, everbearing type).. This new strawberry plant (the Garden Strawberry) was bred in 1740 in Brittany, France, from a North American strawberry plant and a South American strawberry plant.. In addition to the strawberry plant diseases mentioned above, there are also numerous strawberry plant pests that can damage or kill your strawberry plants.. Strawberry Seedlings Learn about newborn strawberry plants here: planting strawberry seedlings, handling strawberry seedlings, hardening strawberry seedlings, and everything about the strawberry seedling!. Genetics of Strawberry Plants The genetics of strawberry plants and strawberry genetics are discussed here.. Life Cycle of Strawberry Plants The life cycle of strawberry plants & the growth cycle of strawberry plants are unique.. Strawberry Plant Diseases Strawberry diseases can affect fruit, flowers, leaves, roots, and crowns of strawberry plants, and sometimes cause the collapse of the whole plant.

If you have bees to take care of the pollination, you are likely to have a bumper crop.. Spray with water or use insecticidal soap or rotenone.. Spotted cucumber beetle is greenish, yellowish, ¼ inch (7mm) long with black spots and black head.. Keep garden clean.. Water soaked spots on leaves, stems and fruits become covered with cottony mold.. Planting.. Sow succession crops every 2 to 4 weeks to extend the harvest and to protect against crops loss to insects or disease.

Leaf scorch on Japanese maple leaves ( Acer palmatum )Leaf scorch may occur on any species of tree or shrub as well as herbaceous plants.. Anything that affects the plant’s ability to take up water, including insect and disease problems, can result in leaf scorch.. Browning of leaf margins and/or yellowing or darkening of the areas between the main leaf veins are symptoms of leaf scorch.. Winter leaf scorch in evergreen plants usually appears as two long, brown areas paralleling the main leaf vein.. Although plants can experience scorch with no insects or disease pathogens involved, insect and disease damage can also affect the plant’s uptake of water.. Screens may be used to protect trees and plants in areas exposed to wind and sun, but it is best not to plant tender plants in these exposures.. Sunscald or sunburn on watermelon ( Citrullus )This Japanese maple ( Acer palmatum ) may look variegated from a distance, but it's actually suffering from leaf scorch probably due to its position in the landscape: a southern exposure and surrounded by a brick wall and pathwayLeaf scorch just beginning on Japanese maple leaves ( Acer palmatum )Leaf scorch on Japanese maple leaves ( Acer palmatum )Sunburn on winged euonymus ( Euonymus alatus ); note distinct line between sunburned tissue and normal tissue protected by shadow of upper leavesSunburned patches on jade plant ( Crassula )Close-up of sunburned patch on jade plant leaf ( Crassula )Heat stress on rhododendron ( Rhododendron ); note that spots are only on upper leaf surface and distinct edges between affected and healthy tissueHeat stress on rhododendron ( Rhododendron ); note that spots are only on upper leaf surface and distinct edges between affected and healthy tissueScorch on Bradford pear leaves ( Pyrus calleryana 'Bradford' )Scorch on maple ( Acer ) leavesScorch on dogwood ( Cornus ) leavesSunburn on African violet leaf ( Saintpaulia ); distortion was caused by cyclamen mites (Acari)Close-up of scorched leaf of fragrant snowbell ( Styrax obassia ) that died of stem cankersRagged hosta leaves caused by sunburnMany varieties of hostas get burned if planted in too much sun and suffer from heat stress when planted too close to hardscaping, such as, sidewalks.Sunburn on variegated hostaLeaf scorch on sugar maple ( Acer saccharum ) caused by egg-laying of 13-year cicada (Hemiptera)Dead areas in a zoysia grass lawn probably due to a combination of the extreme heat and drought in the summer of 2012; areas next to hardscaping were particularly vulnerable due to reflected heat.Sunburn on an orchid leaf

Bird damage is greater in a home gardener’s bed of strawberries than in a farmer’s field of strawberries.. For home strawberry beds, the solution is to protect the strawberries with a bird-resistant cloth.. You can also try tricking the birds by painting strawberry-shaped rocks to look like strawberries and then evenly distributing them throughout your strawberry plants.. As long as the strawberry rocks are painted well in advance of the time your plants actually start setting their real fruits and aren’t obscured by your growing strawberry plants, the birds will remember your first trick and fall hook-line-and-sinker for your second by leaving the fresh fruit alone and in full view!. Planting Alpine Gold strawberries, which are yellow when ripe, may fool birds looking for red strawberries.. Strawberries make polyphenols to protect their seeds (those tiny dots on the surface of a strawberry) after insects bite their leaves .. Thrips are one of the devastating strawberry pests that afflict strawberry plantings and enrage gardeners.

Compost can be mixed directly into the garden soil or used as mulch on the soil surface.. 5broccoli (plants)Feb.1Feb.. 15cauliflower (plants)Feb. 1Feb.. Some can be applied immediately after the vegetable seeds or plants are planted but before the weed seeds germinate.. For vegetables commonly started with transplants, such as tomatoes and peppers, number of days given in Table 6 is from setting plants in the garden to harvest.. Water a day or two before planting so that seeds are planted in moist soil.. As with vegetables, plant what you will use.. Remove diseased plants and plant parts from the garden.


1. #strawberry #plant#alka terrace garden
(alka terrace garden)
2. strawberry plants
3. Understand and Manage Plant Diseases with Patrick Byers
(Springfield Community Gardens)
4. How To Control Plant Diseases Confidently
(Home Gardening Support Network Channel)
5. 5 April 2022
(Gunjan Strawberry Nursery)
6. Why Are My Trees Growing So Poorly
(Cornell Cooperative Extension - Eastern NY Commercial Horticulture)

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